Mera Peak, (6654m) - Climbing in Nepal

Trip Key Information

  • Price:US$ 1849
  • Duration:23 Days
  • Destination:Nepal
  • Grade:Strenuous

Destination: Nepal

Max. Altitude: 6654m

Group size: Min 1 person, Max 10 people.

Departures: year round

Costs: please contact us

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Claimed to be the highest trekking peak in Nepal, this is a tough but spectacular passage into the seldom visited Makalu Barun National Park. The summit offers mind-blowing views, but make no mistake - although you do not need climbing experience for this peak, you will need plenty of stamina to make the summit.

Our expedition starts with a dramatic flight to the small mountain airstrip at Lukla, in the heart of the Khumbu region. Immediately in at the deep-end, our first objective is to cross the Charpate Himal at the Zatrwa La Pass. At 4,610m, we will need to acclimatize first, so our first two/three days are spent exploring the area around Chutanga (3,050m), building up strength and tolerance to the altitude.

Suitably acclimatized, we make our crossing of the Zatrwa La into the Hinku valley. We pass through pristine forests of blue pine and rhododendron and make a steep descent to the Hinku Khola. This river valley rarely sees visitors. With an eye always on acclimatization, we follow the river north towards Upper Hinku. Eventually, the forests give way to alpine meadow, and by Tangnag, the river valley has widened out to offer impressive views of the west face of Mera Peak and Peak 43. There is a real sense of isolation trekking in this valley; we are unlikely to meet anyone on our route to base camp except for the occasional yak herder.

We spend two more days continuing the acclimatization process. From our camp at Tangnag (4,350m), we head off on acclimatization walks, drink copious amounts of tea and build ourselves up for the summit approach. From Tangnag, we head in an easterly direction towards the moraine of the Dig Glacier, and then make a steep ascent to Khare (5,045m). Lower base camp is set at around 5,300m - near the 'Mera La' Pass (5,415m) on the 'Hongu' side of the mountain. With a spare day built into the program to allow for bad weather and acclimatisation, we explore the area before moving on to establish a high camp on the edge of the Mera Glacier. Our ascent up the glacier requires use of crampons and ropes, and we will need to keep a keen eye open for crevasses.

Incredible views meet us from Mera La and remain with us for the next three days; to the east Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse, to the north Everest and Lhotse, and to the north east Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega. Five peaks over 8,000m are visible from Mera La in a sweeping panorama which many mountaineers consider to be the best in the Nepal Himalaya.

We have now entered a realm of snow and ice, and we push forward to establish high camp on the edge of the Mera Glacier at 5,800m. If conditions are favourable, we will make our summit push from here. Although there are three peaks to tempt us; Mera South (6,065m), Mera Central (6,654m) and Mera North (6,476m), our target summit is Mera Central.

On summit day, we leave camp under moonlight, navigating the glacier carefully to reach the first false summit by sun-up. We continue steadily onwards and upwards towards the Central Summit which involves a short steep section at the top. A spectacular panorama will meet our last few steps of the climb. With vistas to take away what little breath you have left, you may be entirely lost for words! After a moment to collect our thoughts, we turn on our heels for base camp at Khare, where we will meet our porters and trek crew and prepare for the return leg of the journey.

Mera Peak will certainly test your resolve, stamina and character. It is a high altitude trek, with oxygen levels of only 44% at the summit, and with a difficult high pass in the first week of the expedition. With preparation and determination however, we say it is one of the most rewarding non-technical climbs on offer in Nepal.

All our guides and porters are experienced, licensed and covered by insurance.

Come and join us for a life changing experience – with Himalayan Unforgettable Adventures!

Day to day outline itinerary

  • Day 01:Arrive in Kathmandu, check into hotel
  • Day 02:Kathmandu tour
  • Day 03:Fly to Lukla, set camp and relax
  • Day 04:Trek to Chutanga (3,050m), set camp and acclimatisation walks to 4,000m
  • Day 06:Cross Zatrwa La Pass (4,610m), and descend to camp at Thuli Kharka (4,300m)
  • Day 07:Descend to Hinku Khola valley and ascend to Tangnag (4,350m)
  • Day 09:Acclimatisation days in and around Tangnag; exploratory walks to 5,000m
  • Day 11:Trek to Base Camp at Khare (5,045m).

  • Day 12:Acclimatise further, and establish high camp (5,800m)

  • Day 15:Summit assault – Mera Central

  • Day 17:Return to Lukla via Zatrwa La Pass.

  • Day 21:Flight to Kathmandu

  • Day 22:Kathmandu Valley tour

  • Day 23:Final departure

Cost Details

Cost Include

Flight Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, all transfers, national park entry fee, peak fee, camping equipment and food on trek (breakfast, lunch, dinner), group climbing equipment, medical kit, climbing Sherpa, Sirdar/guide, cooks, porters, sat phone, cultural tour of Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley, B&B in Kathmandu hotel.

Cost Exclude

Flights to/from Nepal, airport and departure taxes, entry visa, lunch and dinner in Kathmandu, alcoholic and aerated beverages. personal travel insurance, personal climbing equipment and clothes, tips for porters and guides

Useful Info


Detail Itinerary

Day 01Arrive in Kathmandu, check into hotel

Day 02Kathmandu tour

Day 03Fly to Lukla, set camp and relax

Day 04Trek to Chutanga (3,050m), set camp and acclimatisation walks to 4,000m

Day 06Cross Zatrwa La Pass (4,610m), and descend to camp at Thuli Kharka (4,300m)

Day 07Descend to Hinku Khola valley and ascend to Tangnag (4,350m)

Day 09Acclimatisation days in and around Tangnag; exploratory walks to 5,000m

Day 11Trek to Base Camp at Khare (5,045m).

Day 12Acclimatise further, and establish high camp (5,800m)

Day 15Summit assault – Mera Central

Day 17Return to Lukla via Zatrwa La Pass.

Day 21Flight to Kathmandu

Day 22Kathmandu Valley tour

Day 23Final departure

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